At least… this is how it works for me when I’m surfing at Playa Guiones in Nosara, Costa Rica. I’ve never had so much fun beating up my body as when I was learning to surf this past weekend. And here’s the rub… my mind and my body still have not yet synchronized their life clocks. My mind says “Yeah baby, take that BIG wave and ride it just for a bit, then wipe out hard in front of that group of girls because the wipe outs look totally awesome and they’re just as much fun as riding the wave.” My body says, “Whoa… wait just one minute!  Take the small wave and ride it all the way into shore so you can jump off in about 2 feet of water and not get hurt. Forget the looking cool thing.” Yeah right… guess who wins!  You know it… my mind, which seems to forget that I’m over 40 but still remembers how nothing hurt when I was in my teens and twenties. 

Well… after my first surf lesson with Sage’s surf instructor, Andrey, I felt pain and soreness in places that I did not know existed. Some of those places I cannot even mention in a Rated G or PG blog post, but I think you get the idea. 

Wow!!! I did not even realize the athleticism and strength that surfers have until I spent one hour learning to surf. Yeah, go ahead and laugh. It only took me one hour to be completely wiped out… gasping for breath and in need of a big glass of water to wash out all the ocean salt in my mouth. 

I must admit; I was surprised at myself, because I like to think I’m in good shape. I eat healthy, I work out every day, I take lots of vitamins… and I’m fairly strong. BUT NOW, I’ve learned to “respect the ocean.”  In reality, it doesn’t matter how strong you are, or even how crazy you are… the ocean can take you out if it chooses. This is why surfers are always so zen-like… they simply become one with nature; showing the ocean respect and allowing their bodies to flow freely with the waves. Ohmmm.

So tonight… after many, many, many cold cervezas (I try not to take over-the-counter medication for pain), I feel good… and relaxed… and ready for lessons #2, 3, 4 and 5. Wish me luck! But most of all, pray for synchronicity between my mind and my body. 

Pura Vida, 

John