
At least… this is how it works for me when I’m surfing at Playa Guiones in Nosara, Costa Rica. I’ve never had so much fun beating up my body as when I was learning to surf this past weekend. And here’s the rub… my mind and my body still have not yet synchronized their life clocks. My mind says “Yeah baby, take that BIG wave and ride it just for a bit, then wipe out hard in front of that group of girls because the wipe outs look totally awesome and they’re just as much fun as riding the wave.” My body says, “Whoa… wait just one minute! Take the small wave and ride it all the way into shore so you can jump off in about 2 feet of water and not get hurt. Forget the looking cool thing.” Yeah right… guess who wins! You know it… my mind, which seems to forget that I’m over 40 but still remembers how nothing hurt when I was in my teens and twenties.
I’m sorry… I can’t help it! TWO posts in a row now on surfing and two references to the Beach Boys. BUT… I ask you, “how can you talk about surfing and not mention the Beach Boys?” It’s just not possible. BTW: the Beach Boys link above is to their inductee page on the Rock And Roll Hall Of Fame web site. Check it out… it’s on the shores of Lake Erie in the heart of downtown Cleveland, Ohio where rock and roll icons have a home. Come on now… I had to give a little lovin’ to the town where I grew up. Seriously… if you haven’t been… GO… it’s very interesting and of course, IT ROCKS!
How many of you just love that song by the Beach Boys –Surfer Girl? This song has always touched me… and I have fond memories of going to Beach Boy concerts at Blossom Music Center in Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio with my good friends.
Well today… my little girl officially became my little “surfer girl!” Sage had her FIRST surf lesson and WOW… did she do great. Her surf instructor was a very hip dude name Andrey… great tan, awesome dreadlocks, in good shape with a wonderful laid back and friendly personality… you know, what I would classify as the existential surfer.
Right before we left the house for her lesson, Sage said to me, “Daddy, I’m a little scared to take my surf lesson this morning.” My first thought was how cool it was that my daughter felt comfortable enough with me to share her fears and to be so open and honest about them. I just wanted to give her a big hug right there… and so I did.
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