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15 Nov

Paddle…Wait…Catch A Wave…Wipe Out…Repeat!

John's Surfing WipeoutAt least… this is how it works for me when I’m surfing at Playa Guiones in Nosara, Costa Rica. I’ve never had so much fun beating up my body as when I was learning to surf this past weekend. And here’s the rub… my mind and my body still have not yet synchronized their life clocks. My mind says “Yeah baby, take that BIG wave and ride it just for a bit, then wipe out hard in front of that group of girls because the wipe outs look totally awesome and they’re just as much fun as riding the wave.” My body says, “Whoa… wait just one minute!  Take the small wave and ride it all the way into shore so you can jump off in about 2 feet of water and not get hurt. Forget the looking cool thing.” Yeah right… guess who wins!  You know it… my mind, which seems to forget that I’m over 40 but still remembers how nothing hurt when I was in my teens and twenties.

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